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Tropheus Ikola - (No Online Purchases)

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The Tropheus Ikola, often referred to as the Tropheus sp. "Black Ikola" or Kaiser Tropheus, is a striking and popular African cichlid from the rocky habitats near the village of Ikola on the eastern coast of Lake Tanganyika. 

Appearance:

  • They are known for their stunning contrast of colours: a deep black body with a vibrant, sulfur-yellow to white band across their midsection.
  • The mouth and pectoral fins often exhibit a dark blue hue.
  • Males may develop a slightly more upturned nose, grow faster, and display adult colours sooner than females.
  • Adult males tend to have a deeper body, while females are typically slimmer.
  • They can reach a size of 10-15 cm (4-6 inches).

Tank Requirements:

  • A minimum tank size of 200 liters (53 gallons) is recommended for a small group, but ideally, a tank of 470 liters (125 gallons) or more with a length of at least 120 cm (4 feet) is best to accommodate their active swimming and social behaviour.
  • Aquascaping: Provide a sandy substrate as they naturally sift through it for food. Create numerous rock formations with caves and hiding places to establish territories and offer refuge. Avoid sharp rocks that could damage their mouths as they graze.
  • Water Parameters:
    • Temperature: 24-28°C (75-82°F). A reliable heater is essential especially during cooler months.
    • pH: 7.8-9.0 (hard, alkaline water is crucial). Use buffering substrates or add specific salts if your local water is soft and acidic. Limestone or travertine rocks can help maintain alkalinity.
    • Hardness: 10-20 dGH (very hard).
    • Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm.
    • Nitrate: Below 20 ppm. Excellent water quality is paramount.
  • Filtration: A powerful and efficient filtration system is necessary to handle their waste. Regular, substantial water changes (20-50% weekly) are vital.
  • Aeration: Ensure high oxygen levels with strong water movement, directing filter outlets towards the surface or using air pumps/airstones.
  • Lighting: Bright lighting is suitable and encourages algae growth, which forms part of their natural diet.

Temperament and Tank Mates:

  • Tropheus Ikola are known to be moderately to highly aggressive, especially towards each other.
  • They are best kept in large groups (6 or more, ideally 1 male to 3-5 females) to diffuse aggression. Introducing the entire group simultaneously as juveniles is recommended to establish a hierarchy.
  • Species-only tanks are often the most successful way to keep Tropheus.
  • If considering tank mates, choose other robust Lake Tanganyika cichlids with similar dietary needs and temperament, such as small Petrochromis species or goby cichlids (Eretmodus, Spathodus, Tanganicodus). Some keepers have success with larger, more peaceful Malawi Haps.
  • Avoid: Housing with overly aggressive African cichlids, South American cichlids, or small, peaceful fish that could be bullied. It's generally not advisable to mix different Tropheus species or colour morphs due to the risk of hybridization.

Diet:

  • Tropheus Ikola are primarily herbivores that graze on algae in the wild.
  • In the aquarium, their diet should be heavily plant-based:
    • High-quality spirulina-based flakes or pellets should be the staple.
    • Offer blanched vegetables like zucchini, spinach, and peas.
    • Algae wafers are also beneficial.
    • Avoid protein-rich foods like bloodworms or brine shrimp, as these can lead to digestive problems and Malawi Bloat. Offer sparingly as occasional treats.
  • Feed small amounts multiple times a day rather than one large feeding.

Breeding:

  • Breeding Tropheus Ikola in the aquarium is achievable.
  • They are maternal mouthbrooders.
  • A mature group with a proper male-to-female ratio will often breed naturally in a well-maintained tank.
  • Males will display more intense colours to attract females. Spawning usually occurs on flat rocks.
  • The female will carry the fertilized eggs in her mouth for about 3-4 weeks until the fry are free-swimming.
  • It's best to provide a stress-free environment for the brooding female. Some keepers remove the female to a separate "brooder tank" to avoid harassment, while others allow her to release the fry in the main tank.
  • Once released, the fry can be fed finely crushed spirulina flakes or newly hatched brine shrimp.
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